"For many, the course is seen as a detour from the more well-known Cabot courses, but trust me when I say it’s worth the extra effort to get there."

The Hidden Gem of Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Highlands Links, often overshadowed by the more famous Cabot Cliffs and Cabot Links courses, deserves far more recognition. While many golfers traveling to Nova Scotia make Cabot their primary destination, this course stands on its own as a world-class experience that matches the excitement and design of its more famous counterparts.

Situated on the eastern side of Cape Breton Island, Cape Breton Highlands Links is somewhat of an out-of-the-way gem. For many, the course is seen as a detour from the more well-known Cabot courses, but trust me when I say it’s worth the extra effort to get there. It’s located in the heart of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, a spot that offers not only incredible golf but also stunning views and ample outdoor activities.

Designed by Stanley Thompson, one of the greatest Canadian golf course designers, the course opened in 1939. Initially a 9-hole course, it has since grown to 18 holes and earned a reputation as one of the most picturesque and challenging golf courses in the region. The course’s location in Cape Breton Highlands National Park means it has an entry fee of $15, but it’s still incredibly affordable compared to the Cabot courses. Combined with the reasonable course rates and gas for the drive, this is an affordable option for golfers visiting the area.

While you’re there, it’s well worth taking the time to drive the entire Cabot Trail, which runs through the National Park. With incredible hiking trails like the Skyline Trail, which is relatively flat and about two miles long, you can take in the scenery and, if the weather is right, even catch glimpses of sharks, dolphins, and whales.

The course is located in the quaint town of Ingonish, part of the Keltic Lodge resort area. If you’d prefer not to drive back after your round, staying overnight is a great option, allowing you to fully unwind and explore the area.

The clubhouse at Cape Breton Highlands Links is small but welcoming, with a well-stocked pro shop and a cozy restaurant upstairs. The manager, who doubled as both the starter and pro-shop attendant, was incredibly friendly and down-to-earth. He made my day before I even stepped onto the first tee.

Upon arriving, the radar was predicting a 100% chance of rain showers within the first half hour, which made me hesitant about committing to the round. However, the manager assured me that the weather at Ingonish often doesn’t match the radar’s predictions, so I decided to take a chance and play quickly. In a gesture of goodwill, he offered me a discounted rate since I couldn’t receive a refund if I were to get rained out—a kindness I truly appreciated. Of course, I repaid his generosity by picking up a few items from the pro shop.

A statue of Stanley Thompson greets you at the entrance, right in front of the practice putting green, setting the tone for the course’s rich history and respect for its designer. There is no driving range, as expected, given the course’s tight space next to a cliff, but the practice area is still well-maintained.

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A stroll through Stanley Thompson's Excellence

The first hole at Cape Breton Highlands Links is an uphill par-4 that sets the tone for what’s to come. Dense forest lines both sides of the fairway, and hitting it straight off the tee is paramount. If you can keep your drive on track, the hole becomes much more manageable. However, this tightness is a preview of what’s to come—the course is challenging, and you’ll need precision throughout.

The second hole is a long, downhill par-4 that measures 447 yards. The fairway is hilly, and a semi-blind tee shot requires accuracy to avoid the trouble on both the left and right sides of the fairway. I experienced a bit of a roller-coaster moment when my cart nearly went airborne on the hilly terrain!

The third hole introduces the first par-3 of the round, a picturesque hole that requires a tee shot over water with five bunkers guarding the green. The beauty of the hole can be distracting, but you’ll want to focus on your shot,as any miss can lead to challenging recovery shots.

Next comes the fourth hole, a par-4 that’s a bit of a fool’s gold hole. The blind tee shot and slight dogleg right don’t make this hole an enticing one to go for, and it’s one of the few holes on the course that I feel could use some redesign. Moving the back tees forward and to the left to make this hole more reachable could make it a fun, driveable hole.

The fifth hole is a par-3 known for its funky green. It slopes heavily from right to left and from back to front, with deep bunkers protecting each side.This hole might seem straightforward, but missing the green can make recovery difficult. I managed to land in the left bunker and almost got up-and-down from there, showing how challenging this hole can be.

The sixth hole is one of the best on the course—a par-5 that combines strategy, challenge, and beautiful views. The tight downhill tee shot, with a 310-yard carry over water, requires you to hit a precise drive. If you lay up, the hole becomes a three-shot affair. A series of greenside bunkers adds difficulty around the green. I played the hole in three shots after a pulled drive, but still walked away with a solid par.

The seventh hole is one of the tightest par-5s you’ll find anywhere in Canada. Measuring 570 yards from the back tees, it’s squeezed between trees that line the tee box, making the fairway feel no wider than 40-50 yards. The wind was against me as I hit my drive straight into the trees, but I was fortunate enough to have the ball bounce back into the fairway, giving me another chance. I was relieved to walk away with a par, but this hole definitely requires strategy and precision.

The eighth hole, a driveable par-4, is another tight hole that may make some golfers nervous due to the blind tee shot. The fairway is tight, but there’s a good birdie opportunity here if you’re willing to take on the challenge. However, I sprained my ankle while walking off the tee, which made this hole memorable for reasons other than the golf!

The ninth hole is a short par-4 with a blind tee shot, followed by a second shot that requires precision. It’s a quirky design, but one that offers a fairly straightforward approach to finishing the front nine. I closed the front nine with another par, taking me to the back nine at 2-over 38.

The Inward Nine: A Test of Precision and Resilience

The 10th hole is a par-3 that changes drastically depending on the tee box.From the back tees, it’s longer, but the angle to the green is more favorable, giving golfers a better shot at success.

The 11th hole is one of the easiest par-5s on the course, measuring 512 yards. The challenge here is the forced carry over a small stream off the tee, but once past that, the fairway opens up, and the green is guarded by just one bunker.

The 12th hole is a monster par-3 that measures 240 yards, with a lake running along the left side of the hole. Hitting long and straight is a must,but the green is relatively flat, making it easier to read the putts.

The 13th and 14th holes are similar dogleg-left par-4s, flanked by trees on both sides. On the 14th, I finally broke my six-hole par streak after a chunky approach shot, but the rain started to pick up, adding some challenge to the final stretch.

The final two par-5s, 15 and 16, are both a test of accuracy and skill. The 15th hole is tight, with a heavily undulated fairway, and the green is surrounded by 6-7 bunkers, making approach shots tricky. I lost my only ball of the day on this hole when my tee shot found the cart path, which led to a penalty.

The 16th hole plays straight uphill, with one of the widest fairways on the course. However, the green is tucked next to the forest, so any missed shots to the right are lost, while shots left of the green roll down a steep slope, making the up-and-down difficult.

The 17th and 18th holes are more straightforward, with the par-3 17th offering a good opportunity to get closer to the hole and the par-4 18th providing a simple finishing hole. While I was left wanting a little more from these closing holes, the challenges from earlier in the round more than made up for it.

Post Round Thoughts

Cape Breton Highlands Links reminded me of traditional American city golf courses, with its tree-lined fairways, dramatic elevation changes, and numerous blind shots. While it’s not a pure Scottish-style links course, it uses its rugged terrain brilliantly, creating a unique golfing experience that is both challenging and enjoyable. The course stays true to its roots as an old-fashioned design, maximizing the natural features of the land while presenting a modern test of strategy and precision.

There are a few holes I’d consider tweaking, such as reducing the number of forced blind shots and trimming some of the tree-lined fairways to provide more visibility and options off the tee. Despite these minor critiques, the course offers an exciting variety of hole designs and strategic challenges, many of which I’d never seen before. This variety made the round incredibly memorable.

I shot a respectable 78 on a windy, wet day with zero birdies— a rarity for me. The course’s tight conditions and challenging greens made scoring difficult, but I was pleased with my play overall. Even though I missed a few birdie opportunities, I walked away with a sense of accomplishment for navigating such a demanding course in just over two hours.

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