A Place of Tradition and Honor

To conclude my two-week family vacation in Scotland in 2018, I had the privilege of playing Muirfield, one of the most prestigious and challenging links courses in the world. Our trip was graced by what locals described as the best stretch of weather in over 75 years, with rain only making a brief appearance during our visit to the Isle of Skye. As the last round of golf on our trip, Muirfield provided an unforgettable (and humbling) experience, even if I wasn’t playing my own ball— more on that later.

Muirfield’s entrance is understated and secluded, fitting for a club of its stature. At the time of my visit, the parking lot appeared makeshift due to ongoing construction. However, once inside, the atmosphere was transformative. Walking through the clubhouse entrance, it felt as though I had stepped into a historical portrait. The surrounding trees and walls keep the course hidden from view until you are fully on the property, where you are greeted with a striking panorama of rolling hills, penal long grass, and, in the distance, the glimmering sea.

We played on a non-visitor day, meaning we may have been the only non-members on the course. True to Muirfield tradition, our group played foursomes (alternate shot) in both the morning and afternoon to maintain the pace of play, as we had a dinner to attend that evening. Another policy worth mentioning is their no-phones inside the clubhouse rule. Perhaps this was to avoid people texting or being rude, and it could only be for guests. Either way I wanted to respect their rules.

The men’s locker room was a highlight of the day. Stepping into this historic space felt like traveling back in time, as though nothing had changed since the days of Old Tom Morris. It’s hard not to feel both inspired and intimidated knowing that many of golf’s greatest champions prepared for battle in this very room.

Changing Times

When I visited in 2018, Muirfield was undergoing its most significant transformation in history. Having faced criticism and suspension from the R&A and Open Championship Rota for not admitting female members, the club voted to amend its policies and begin admitting women. The construction I noticed at the clubhouse was part of these changes, specifically the addition of a women’s locker room. While this addition was necessary and overdue, it altered the clubhouse’s traditional aesthetic, and I wasn’t fond of the new look from an architectural standpoint.

On the other hand, the pro shop, which had been newly opened for less than three months, was a fantastic upgrade. Historically, Muirfield had no pro shop, and any merchandise featuring the club’s logo was reserved for members or affiliated with the British Open. I made sure to purchase a pricey cashmere sweater adorned with the club’s logo— a souvenir I cherish to this day.

A Lunching Tradition

One of Muirfield’s most cherished traditions is its cafeteria, buffet, family-styled lunch, which was an experience I will never forget. The food was outstanding—I still vividly remember the delicious bangers and mash—but the highlight was the company. Speaking with members and hearing their stories added a personal touch to the day.

While I’ll keep the details of these conversations private, it was refreshing to learn that the members I spoke with were far from the stereotypes perpetuated during the club’s controversy. Muirfield is a club steeped in tradition, and it deserves its place as a host for the Open Championship once again.

The Hardest Round of Golf I've Ever Played

If I had to describe Muirfield in one word, it would be hard. Even on a relatively mild day- slightly cold with moderate winds— the course was a relentless challenge. Muirfield’s clockwise and counterclockwise routing ensures that players face changing wind directions on every hole. Combine this with strategically placed bunkers, deep rough, and small, firm greens, and you have a course that tests every aspect of your game.

Links scholars often debate whether Muirfield or Carnoustie is the toughest course in the Open rota. While I have yet to play Carnoustie, it’s hard to imagine anything more punishing than Muirfield.

While I will not go into detail on every hole, like I do in some of my blog posts, I will highlight a few of my favorite moments.

"Muirfield’s clockwise and counterclockwise routing ensures that players face changing wind directions on every hole."

The 4th hole, an hourglass-shaped green surrounded by trouble, was my favorite par three on the course. Its subtle design required a perfectly placed tee shot to avoid a difficult recovery. The 5th hole was a beast. Crosswinds made every shot challenging, and our group finished with scores of 8 the first time we played it. Fortunately, we improved during the second round.

The 6th hole, a par four, fit my eye perfectly. Despite its reputation as one of the tougher holes, I nearly birdied it both times we played it. On the par four 8th, my approach shot played the slope perfectly, leaving a short birdie putt (that my partner unfortunately missed). The par five 9th provided one of our few birdies of the day after a well-placed chip and solid putt by my partner.

The par four 11th stands out for its intimidating blind tee shot to a relatively wide fairway by Muirfield’s standards. Despite its short yardage, the wind and visual intimidation make you second-guess even simple shots.

My best shot of the day came on the par three 16th, where we played from the tournament tees into a stiff headwind. Adjusting for the wind, I hit a pure 4-iron that pierced through the gusts and rolled up the slope, leaving a 5-foot birdie putt (again, missed by my partner).

The par five 17th, where Phil Mickelson famously secured his Open Championship victory, gave me a newfound appreciation for his skill. Reaching the green in two on a major Sunday is a feat I now consider superhuman. I managed a respectable par here after escaping from a greenside bunker.

The par four 18th is a daunting finishing hole, with two perfectly placed fairway bunkers ready to ruin your round. The green, like many at Muirfield, is deceptively undulating, and our final approach shot rolled off into a bunker. My Uncle’s thinned iron somehow rolled past the pin, leaving him a short birdie putt. As you can tell, I am still angry we lost the match. A fittingly challenging end to an incredible day.

"Muirfield deserves to host another Open Championship, and I hope the R&A recognizes this soon."

Respecting a Brutal Arse-Kicking

Playing Muirfield without local knowledge feels like giving up a stroke per hole. Understanding not just the slopes and bunkers but also the wind patterns and strategic decisions can make or break a round. On some holes, what looks like a birdie opportunity on the scorecard becomes a hole where par feels like a victory once you factor in the wind.

This need for experience is what makes Muirfield so special. Watching professionals struggle here during the Open Championship only deepens my respect for their skill.

Muirfield is the greatest test of golf I have ever faced. It embodies the essence of links golf: challenging, strategic, and utterly unforgiving.

While the changes to the clubhouse altered its traditional aesthetic, the club’s willingness to adapt ensures its continued legacy. Muirfield deserves to host another Open Championship, and I hope the R&A recognizes this soon.

For any golfer, playing Muirfield isa bucket-list experience. It’s not just a round of golf— it’s a journey through history, tradition, and the raw beauty of Scottish links golf.

Course & Town Gallery