The Old Course Experience

"This is almost like golf heaven."

The next stop in my Scotland vacation took me east to the hallowed grounds of St. Andrews, the birthplace of golf. Once a city due to its historic cathedral, St. Andrews is now a quaint and charming town nestled behind Dundee and Perth. As we approached, I was immediately struck by the overwhelming feeling that I had arrived at the "Home of Golf." Every street, corner, and view seemed to whisper tales of legends and their moments of glory.

I had the rare privilege of playing the Old Course twice during this visit—36 holes of history, challenge, and sheer awe. Our uncle, a member of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club (R&A), made this dream a reality. The opportunity to tread where Jack Nicklaus, Tiger Woods, and Jordan Spieth made history was unforgettable. This is the bridge they crossed, the bunkers they faced, the greens they mastered. Walking these fairways felt almost spiritual. My dad summed it up best as we stood on the first tee: "This is almost like golf heaven."

As much as I revered my experience, a fair account requires mentioning a few critiques. These minimal negatives were far outweighed by the abundant positives, but they deserve a moment of attention.

My first round stretched well over 5 ½ hours, and our second round hovered near 5 hours. While part of this is understandable— after all, people want to soak in the history and capture every moment— it was largely caused by poor play from groups ahead. The Old Course is an open venue, welcoming golfers of all skill levels, but a handicap maximum of 25 would make a significant difference in pace of play.

The greens were surprisingly slow, a result of the summer drought that left them drier than usual. Unlike American courses that become faster when dry,links-style greens depend on moisture to remain intact. The groundskeepers explanation made sense, and though this impacted my rounds, it didn’t detract from the overall experience. I’m a putter-snob who enjoys fast greens, my buddies would have loved the pace at St. Andrew’s. So to each his own. It pains me to be a critic of this legendary course, but I’d be fooling myself if I did not explain my experience complete truthfulness. I sure hope no chairman from the R&A or St. Andrews reads this paragraph.

A Surreal Beginning

Standing on the first tee at the Old Course is a moment every golfer dreams of. Despite a gallery of 20–40 onlookers, I wasn’t nervous. My first shot,however, perfectly encapsulated the quirks of links golf. I hit a beautiful 4-iron with a slight fade, but the wind, the firm fairway, and a cruel bounce directed my ball into the burn. Double bogey to start. Welcome to St. Andrews.

The next two holes turned my luck around. Despite pulled tee shots on both, I found great angles to the green, securing back-to-back pars. In true links fashion, my second round saw the opposite results: par-bogey-bogey. The wind, angles, and bounces at St. Andrews ensure no two rounds are ever the same.

Hole 5: Hole O’Cross (Out)
This par five, playing downwind both days, gave me less than 170 yards for my approach shots— yet I walked away with pars both rounds. The first day, a cruel slope sent my ball rolling 60 yards to the back of the shared green. The second day, I found a greenside bunker. These challenges highlighted the genius of the Old Course’s design: even short par fives can demand the utmost precision. My mind was lulled into a false state of relaxation after two great drives.

Hole 7: High - Out
This par four is a masterpiece of strategy, requiring precise placement off the tee to avoid bunkers and an approach shot that considers the pin position. I managed a par and birdie over the two rounds, feeling accomplished on this deceptively challenging hole.

Holes 8 and 9: Short and End
Downwind in round one and into the wind in round two, these holes showcased the importance of adaptability. My initial attempts to overpower these “easier” holes backfired, resulting in bogies. The next day, smarter play rewarded me with a birdie and par. A shift in wind can turn potential birdie holes into formidable tests.

"The wind, angles, and bounces at St. Andrews ensure no two rounds are ever the same."

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Highlights from the Inward Nine

Holes 10 (Bobby Jones) and 12 (Heathery - In)
These holes taught me a lesson in adapting to conditions. In my first round, I hit drivers on both and reached the greens, securing birdies. The second round,I misplayed the 10th with a driver, settling for bogey. Adjusting my strategy on the 12th, I went with a 4-iron, nearly birdied, and felt vindicated in my decision. Sometimes, less is more at the Old Course. And more importantly, each round is different from the last and different the next, especially in Scotland.

Hole 11: High (In)
One of my favorite par threes, the 11th demands ultimate precision. Missing short means bunkers; going long leaves a near-impossible recovery. Two pars on this hole felt like victories.

Hole 14: Long
This par five became my best-played hole of the trip. Into the wind, I hit a 330-yard drive followed by a low, stinging 4-iron from 250 yards that found the green. A two-putt birdie felt well-earned, and I appreciated the strategic brilliance of the hole’s design.

‍Hole 16: Corner of the Dyke
Standing on the 16th green, I couldn’t help but picture Jordan Spieth sinking his iconic birdie putt. This par four tests your courage off the tee, rewarding those who challenge the bunkers with better angles to the green. It’s one of my favorite holes for its history and design. As my caddie quoted, the hole is a sleeper being right before the Road Hole. Many a golfers start thinking about the 17^th hole before finishing 16, and it can bite them in the ‘arse’.

A closing 1-2 stretch unlike any other

Hole 17: Road
The Road Hole is as intimidating as advertised. My first attempt in a practice round ended with my ball hitting the Old Course Hotel. What makes this hole so hard, excluding the intimidation factor, is the line you must take to hit and hold the fairway.

You can aim at the sliver of the fairway you (hardly) see off the tee but you’ll find your ball 50 yards deep into the rough.

Heck, you can be aggressive and take it over the left part of “The Open” sign and find your ball in the left rough too. However, in our match the following day, I hit one of the best drives of my life, finding the center of the fairway 330 yards out. Though I lipped out a birdie putt, the satisfaction of conquering this beastly hole overshadowed any disappointment.

Hole 18: Tom Morris
The final hole is a thrilling end to the round. My second round saw a wayward tee shot that found OB, but walking up the fairway toward the town, the R&A clubhouse, and the Swilcan Bridge was unforgettable. This iconic closing hole perfectly encapsulates the spirit of St. Andrews and the Old Course.

Reflections of The Old Course

St. Andrews lived up to every expectation. Playing the Old Course was less about the score and more about immersing myself in the history and majesty of the game. The course relies heavily on weather to present a true challenge, and I was fortunate to play it in favorable conditions. While it’s not the most difficult course, its design is timeless and unforgettable.

For those planning a visit, beware of overpriced merchandise at tourist shops claiming to be "official." My recommendation is to visit Auchterlonies of St. Andrews, just a short walk from the first tee. They offer a good selection at fairer prices compared to other shops.

My biggest tip is to enjoy the round no matter the weather, no matter your score, and with your own two eyes. If you have read other articles on my Blog, you will notice a smaller number of pictures taken (and I played the course twice). This is because I took it all in and the thought of taking out my phone to check a message or snap a photo didn't cross my mind.

St. Andrews isn’t just a golf course; it’s a pilgrimage. If possible, every golfer should experience it at least once in their lifetime. From the historic town to the unmatched legacy of the Old Course, this was a highlight of my Scotland trip and a memory I will treasure forever.

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